Adjusting valves?

[Rail Dawg]

I'm coming up on the first 6 months of having this 13kw Guardian.

Time to check/adjust the valves right?

Anyone with some words of wisdom besides what's in the manual?

Where did you get the replacement valve cover gaskets and was there any kind of sealant for the gaskets?

Thanks.

Chuck

[MacMan]

if you had a bunch of long power outages where the generator was running in the past 6 months, then I'd probably check them. But I don't think that you need to adjust the valves after 6 months if most of the running is just the weekly exercise. I do mine every 12 months.

As for the gaskets, I'm sure Ziller has them in stock.....send Kelly a PM and ask.

[johnc]

did you check out the service video on the home page?

[Kelly Myers]

Here is my first video on how to do the valves. I'm hoping for input on what is lacking in the video so I can answer questions on how to do it better.
http://zillerelectric.com/VIDEOS.html



As for the valve cover gaskets, they are pretty much reusable. When you take the valve cover off make sure you pull the gasket straight up and don't slide it, that is where they tend to rip.

If you rip one (very unlikely) you can call us at 1-888-294-5537 and we can ship you out a new one. I think they're $1.59 or so.

[Joe Hudson]

Here is my first video on how to do the valves. I'm hoping for input on what is lacking in the video so I can answer questions on how to do it better.
http://zillerelectric.com/VIDEOS.html



As for the valve cover gaskets, they are pretty much reusable. When you take the valve cover off make sure you pull the gasket straight up and don't slide it, that is where they tend to rip.

If you rip one (very unlikely) you can call us at 1-888-294-5537 and we can ship you out a new one. I think they're $1.59 or so.

Kelly just my thoughts.

Shouldn't the fuse/fuses be removed before removing the battery cables?

Also... a sore point with me... Where are the torque specs on the spark plugs. Most people tend to over torque these things. These heads are aluminum and it isn't the same as your car. Also I am a firm beliver that when installing a steel threaded thing (screw, bolt, or spark plug) in an aluminum block or head that anti-seize should be used on the threads. It can be impossible to remove them without damage sometimes.

Just my opinion

Joe

[Rail Dawg]

did you check out the service video on the home page?


I did today. Thanks for pointing that out! I didn't know it was there.

Very informative. Thanks.

Chuck

[johnc]

chuck: let us know if valve adjustment was needed and was it as easy as video showed. thanks

[Rail Dawg]

chuck: let us know if valve adjustment was needed and was it as easy as video showed. thanks


I won't be doing it for another month or so but will gladly post anything I find.

Thanks.

Chuck

[SteveInMD]

I think there could be one whole video on adjusting the valves. I'd like to see the exact process of removing the flywheel cover. Also the person was turning the flywheel with their left hand, but what were they doing with their right?

I've never done the valves on one of there motors, but usually the process involves loosening a jamb nut, adjusting the valve, tightening the jamb nut, and then rechecking the clearance to see if it changed when the jamb nut was tightened. Is the process the same here? I think the video could be more clear.

Since the video has sound, can't someone explain exactly what is happening as the video rolls?

[Namvet34]

This may seem like a silly question, but why can't you simply measure the valve gap clearance without loosening anything initially in order to determine whether they even need to be adjusted? :confused:

Gene

[johnc]

By turning the flywheel until maximum resistance would be my guess where top dead center is. I'm sure someone out there has done this. Maybe Kelly would answer this one. In video it didn't seem like any big deal.
Very good point Gene.

[retiredguy]

Remove the plug(s) and put a long tie-wrap in the spark plug hole. When you turn the flywheel you will see the tie-wrap moved to it's highest point you are at TDC.

[Gnmaples]

NamVet is exactly right. Check the clearance on all valves and compare each/all before doing anything else. My experience + that of my veteran Elite Dealer is that these things very seldom need adjusting. And if they do, the adjustment is more precise than many well intentioned first timers may be prepared for.
Best to all!
Gene

[Gnmaples]

After removing both spark plugs, you can remove half the muffler compartment top and turn the engine very easily with your left hand in the outboard-end fan. To me, that's much easier & quicker than going thru the engine flywheel end.;)
Best!

[Barry Dennis]

I've had my 12kw generac for 5 years now and I check the valve adjustment every Spring when I do my oil & filter change and I have not needed to make any adjustments. The only maintainance, other then oil & filter, has been a battery and a starter. I still have the original spark plugs in it. Runs like a Deere..... :)

Barry

[johnc]

thats good news!!!!!!

[MacMan]

Another method to check valve lash is the one up/one down method we use on our race engines. Turn the engine over until one rocker arm is fully down, and then check the other rocker. Repeat on other valve. This also insures that the lifter is on the cam base circle...the absolutely lowest it can go and valve is 100% closed.

[Rail Dawg]

NamVet is exactly right. Check the clearance on all valves and compare each/all before doing anything else. My experience + that of my veteran Elite Dealer is that these things very seldom need adjusting. And if they do, the adjustment is more precise than many well intentioned first timers may be prepared for.
Best to all!
Gene


This caught my attention Gene. As a first timer I was wondering if my attempts to check and possibly adjust would do more harm than good...

I don't want to pay the minimum call-out fee for a tech to come and do it.

Opinions?

Thanks.

Chuck

[Gnmaples]

Rail Dog....sorry I haven't been on in a while & just saw this. As the previous poster and I have said, once set correctly, the V-Twin valves very seldom need adjusting. If you've never done this before here are two things you might wanta' consider: 1. If you have a good friendly small engine shop or servicing turf equipment dealer in your area <or a servicing generator dealer, for that matter>, a friendly can-you-show-me request to the right person should yield a look-see while they are doing one in their shop. Most should tell you not to mess with the adjustment unless it has gotten out toward the loose end of the spec. The process and feel are very similar regardless of the overhead valve engine brand. 2. Unless things have changed at Generac, a new install (by anyone) requires a documented start-up check by an authorized servicing dealer before they will honor any possible future warranty claims. In my opinion, that fee is well spent. And if you insist, they should be willing to check/confirm the as-factory-set valve clearance. Checking both valve banks takes only 15 minutes or so. And you could actually see and feel how it goes.

Let us know how it goes!
Gene

[d11gnccer]

Bringing this back to life. Just checked the valves on a unit today and all were tight. I went to top dead center and set to .003". Is setting top dead center all done by feel? Seems like intake and exhaust rocker arms were moving one way or another and hard to find a spot where they were exact.

On my dual overhead cam race bike the cam sprockets have timing marks that line up to ensure exact top dead center.

Also on my bike the clearances tend to get tighter as the valves stretch. Is that the same with these engines? Or did I adjust this customers valves wrong??!

We did this in the Generac class but had 3 guys with their hands on it so it's hard to remember.

[SkipD]

Bringing this back to life. Just checked the valves on a unit today and all were tight. I went to top dead center and set to .003". Is setting top dead center all done by feel? Seems like intake and exhaust rocker arms were moving one way or another and hard to find a spot where they were exact.

On my dual overhead cam race bike the cam sprockets have timing marks that line up to ensure exact top dead center.

Also on my bike the clearances tend to get tighter as the valves stretch. Is that the same with these engines? Or did I adjust this customers valves wrong??!

We did this in the Generac class but had 3 guys with their hands on it so it's hard to remember.You can pull the plugs and either look into the cylinders or use a something like a plastic rod to feel when the piston is at TDC.

[DanB]

There are tools for this, if you want one. For example:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=73860&group_ID=1594&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

[yucan2]

There are tools for this, if you want one. For example:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=73860&group_ID=1594&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Nice tip!

That tool can surely save a lot of aggravation.

[Kelly Myers]

There are tools for this, if you want one. For example:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=73860&group_ID=1594&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog


Wow, I'm ordering those for all the service trucks. Thanks for the heads up.

[MjrBad]

Sears sells 2 variations of this tool:

6" Lenght:http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915629000P?keyword=TOP+DEAD+CENTER

14" Lenght for hard to get to spark plugs: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00915644000P?vName=Tools&cName=Auto+%26+Mechanics+Tools&sName=Auto+Specialty+Tools&keyword=Indicator%2C+Top+Dead+Center

[d11gnccer]

Awesome! Just ordered one. I've also found that the more tools you can pull out of a truck, that the homeowner doesn't have, the more satisfied they are.

Any input on the nature of these valves? Do the clearances typically get tight or loose?

[MacMan]

This may seem like a silly question, but why can't you simply measure the valve gap clearance without loosening anything initially in order to determine whether they even need to be adjusted? :confused:

Gene

Gene, that is a given. No one should loosen the lock nuts unless the valve needs to be adjusted. Always check the clearance first. From what I have read here, these valves don't go out of adjustment much.

[MacMan]

......Also I am a firm beliver that when installing a steel threaded thing (screw, bolt, or spark plug) in an aluminum block or head that anti-seize should be used on the threads. It can be impossible to remove them without damage sometimes..... Absolutely right Joe....anti seize is a must on aluminum heads. We use a little dab on our $40,000 sprint car aluminum heads every time we change plugs.....makes life so much easier.